Knitted Witch Hat
The knitted witch hat is a whimsical accessory that adds a touch of magic to any Halloween costume or cozy winter outfit. With its classic pointed shape and intricate stitches, this hat is not only stylish but also cozy and warm to wear. Whether you're dressing up for a spooky night out or simply looking to channel your inner witchy vibe, this hat is a must-have. The knitted fabric feels soft against your skin, making it a comfortable choice for all-day wear. Embrace your playful side and complete your look with this charming knitted witch hat that is sure to make you stand out in the best way possible!
Skill Level – Easy
Sizes
- Adult.
- Teen.
- Child / 4-12 yrs.
Gauge – 9 sts/13 rows in 10×10 cm/4×4 inches of stockinette stitch.
The Supplies You Need
Yarn
- 1 x Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick Yarn – 170g/106yd/97m in the color Black.
- Super bulky/Super Chunky/14 Ply Yarn.
- An extra length of black yarn is needed for seaming the hat (for the adult size).
Needles
- 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- 10mm (US 15) knitting needles.
Notions
- Tape measure
- Darning needle/yarn needle.
- Scissors
Other Materials
Thin wire (0.5/or 1 meter for making jewelry etc) to thread through the edge of the brim of the hat to give it shape.
Abbreviations
- CO – cast on
- Cont – continue
- K – knit
- K2tog – Knit the next two stitches together (decrease)
- Garter stitch – every row knit
- P – purl
- St(s) – stitch(es)
- St, st – stockinette stitch (RS row knit, WS row purl)
- Rep – repeat
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
Witch Hat Adult Size
The brim
- With 15mm (US 19) knitting needles and two strands together of the super bulky yarn CO 52 sts.
- Work in garter stitch for 6 rows ending on a WS row.
The main body of the hat
Change to 10mm (US 15) needles.
You will continue to work the hat using one strand of yarn only…
- Row 1 (RS): *K2, K2tog* – rep from * to * to the end of the row. (39 sts)
- Row 2 (WS): Purl
- Cont to work in st, st until the piece measures 7 inches from the start of the stocking stitch section, ending on a WS row.
Decreasing the hat
Row 1 (RS): *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (26 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. (18 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (12 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (8 sts)
Row 8: Purl.
Row 9: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. (6 sts)
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (4 sts)
Row 12: Purl.
Row 13: K2tog, K2tog (2 sts)
Thread the rem yarn through the last 2 sts and close, then start to seam the sides together using the mattress stitch.
You may need an extra length of black yarn to seam.
The mattress stitch is an invisible seam and will make the closing of the hat look neat.
Weave in all loose ends.
Finishing the brim
The brim is quite floppy, so to finish and make it lie better when worn, I threaded thin wire (for jewelry making) through the very edge of the hat.
You will need 0.5 or 1 meter of wire, thread through the stitches at the edge of the brim all the way around, then fasten off and hide the ends in the yarn.
When worn you can shape the brim better if the wire is in there.
Brim Tip – Adding thin wire around the edge of the brim can help to shape and keep it lying flat instead of flopping down.
Witch Hat Teen Size
The brim
- With 15mm (US 19) knitting needles and two strands together of the super bulky yarn CO 49 sts.
- Work in garter stitch for 6 rows ending on a WS row.
The main body of the hat
Change to 10mm (US 15) needles.
You will continue to work the hat using one strand of yarn only…
- Row 1 (RS): *K2, K2tog* – rep from * to * to the last st, K1. (37 sts)
- Row 2 (WS): Purl
- Cont to work in st, st until the piece measures 6 inches from the start of the stocking stitch section, ending on a WS row.
Decreasing the hat
Row 1 (RS): *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last st, K1. (25 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last st, K1. (17 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. (12 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (8 sts)
Row 8: Purl.
Row 9: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. (6 sts)
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (4 sts)
Row 12: Purl.
Row 13: K2tog, K2tog (2 sts)
Thread the rem yarn through the last 2 sts and close, then start to seam the sides together using the mattress stitch.
The mattress stitch is an invisible seam and will make the closing of the hat look neat.
Weave in all loose ends.
Finishing the brim
The brim is quite floppy, so to finish and make it lie better when worn, I threaded thin wire (for jewelry making) through the very edge of the hat.
You will need 0.5 or 1 meter of wire, thread through the stitches at the edge of the brim all the way around, then fasten off and hide the ends in the yarn.
When worn you can shape the brim better if the wire is in there.
Witch Hat Child Size
The brim
- With 15mm (US 19) knitting needles and two strands together of the super bulky yarn CO 47 sts.
- Work in garter stitch for 4 rows ending on a WS row.
The main body of the hat
Change to 10mm (US 15) needles.
You will continue to work the hat using one strand of yarn only…
- Row 1 (RS): *K2, K2tog* – rep from * to * to end. (35 sts)
- Row 2 (WS): Purl
- Cont to work in st, st until the piece measures 5 inches from the start of the stocking stitch section, ending on a WS row.
Decreasing the hat
Row 1 (RS): *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. (24 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (16 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last st, K1. (11 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. (8 sts)
Row 8: Purl.
Row 9: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. (6 sts)
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: *K1, K2tog – rep from * to end. (4 sts)
Row 12: Purl.
Row 13: K2tog, K2tog (2 sts)
Thread the rem yarn through the last 2 sts and close, then start to seam the sides together using the mattress stitch.
The mattress stitch is an invisible seam and will make the closing of the hat look neat.
Weave in all loose ends.
Finishing the brim
(FOR THE CHILD’S SIZE ADDING WIRE IN THE BRIM MAY BE A SAFETY HAZARD, SO PLEASE USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT WHEN FINISHING THE HAT)
The brim is quite floppy, so to finish and make it lie better when worn, I threaded thin wire (for jewelry making) through the very edge of the hat.
You will need 0.5 or 1 meter of wire, thread through the stitches at the edge of the brim all the way around, then fasten off and hide the ends in the yarn.
When worn you can shape the brim better if the wire is in there.